How long is a pitch in climbing reddit. Taking it slow, learning a lot.
- How long is a pitch in climbing reddit. You can climb 1,000+ feet without any gear, and there are many, many routes of varying difficulty to choose from. Factor in the descent as well, is it a walk off or is it rappel back down. Then someone showed me how to place good gear on the ground and weigh test them and we then went around the corner and I put up my first lead was 5. My question is: Have you personally lost a friend or loved one climbing? If so, how long had you been climbing at that point? In my second year of climbing my best friend died in a top roping accident. My suggestion would be to focus on smooth climbing and maybe for the longer projects start in teams of 2 until you're more comfortable and can climb more efficiently at those grades. However, the actual distance can vary based on the type of climb and the terrain. Flipping the rope and handing over gear doesn't take long. Feb 19, 2025 · In most cases, a pitch of rock climbing corresponds to the length of the climbing rope, which is around 50 to 70 meters (164 to 230 feet). Yes. Taking it slow, learning a lot. Check out the “Joshua Tree N” style anchor which incorporates a tether—I’m a fan. It used to mean multi-pitch, single-pitch, trad, sport, bouldering, gym, etc. 8? I would pull back your expectations big time, for everyone's safety and more importantly, enjoyment. Modern climbing ropes are typically 60–70 metres (200–230 ft) in length, which sets the theoretical maximum length of a 'pitch', however, other factors mean that the average pitch on a multi-pitch route is circa 30–40 metres (98–131 ft) in length. Start to focus on planning. become solid in all disciplines (crack, slab, ow, chimney) at least 5. Nowadays you can find hundreds of modern protected routes too and these modern crags are crowded especially in the weekends. On a good day sport climbing, I do about 6-10 pitches. You can honestly find 2-4 pitch sport route crags almost anywhere in the US; where do you live? A few others off the top of my head in other regions of the US that have numerous routes: Upper/Lower Jul 4, 2023 · Grab a cold one, sit down with your friends, and get ready to debate this list—and build one hell of a sport climbing bucket list in the process. It’s generally considered to be anywhere from 20 to 60 feet, but it can be shorter or longer depending on the route and the climber. Big wall is a spectrum from bolted 8 pitchers to trad ''trade routes'' with easily accessible clear beta and maybe even fixed anchors, aid climbs that 5. Do's and Don'ts and that sort of thing. Yeah I think that’s totally valid. Thoughts on Helmets? (Do you use one, what to look for in buying) Efficiency on multi-pitch is a skill that's learned through practice. 929 votes, 46 comments. Rapping a pitch back down to the party ledge/cave is vastly superior to hanging in your harness all night. long ass hike (10+ miles), didn't aclimatize properly, nearly puked, bailed, had to redo the traverse pitch on the NE face of Pingora to get back to the ground. And yes we are scared of falling. The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation, commonly known by its French name Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA, lit. Reply Naviers_Stoked • Also, also: im aware of techniques to communicate a pitch away, such as tugs on the rope, the procedure of going on belay before pulling slack up etc, but i will be guiding some beginners on long easy routes soon here and i'm looking to make communication as easy and effective as possible. I'm now able to lead 5. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. Places like Camp 4 in Yosemite, or Hidden Valley Camp Ground in Joshua Tree, or Indian Creek, UT, or Rancho El Sendero/La Posada in El Potrero Chico, or El Salto, Mexico This will give you a slow and steady progression that will probably keep you safer in the long term: You're developing your climbing skill, climbing strength, and technical trad skills in parallel, rather than becoming an awesome sport climber that gets in dangerously over his head on a difficult trad route. Throughout all my climbing trips, I have realized that for me, the most fun and most memorable places to go climb are places that have an amazing community of climbers who all convene in one epic place to have fun together. I don't usually stick around and project, I mostly go for onsights or 1 or 2 tries. 10 routes on toprope at the gym, learn to sport climb -> Once competent at lead climbing and belaying sport routes, learn to single pitch trad climb -> Once competent at single pitch trad climbing and anchor building, begin climbing easy multipitch routes Red Rock, Nevada is the obvious answer to me (since Potrero Chico isn't in the US). This year I started tracking the number of pitches I climbed and how many I get on per day out. My friend took me it was just the two of us, and we did like three short multi pitches in a row with a walk off, all around 5. Figure out your water source the day before which can mean brining an extra bladder to chug before you get on route. The big question is do you climb that many pitches of a similar length in a day at a single pitch crag? If the answer’s yes then you don’t need to worry that much about your stamina but bear in mind that, assuming you’ll be swinging leads with your partner you’ll be leading pitches straight after seconding the previous one so if you usually really need a rest after climbing a pitch you I hope you try out a 3-4 pitch climb with your friends first. Aid climbing. Informal survey of all you climbers. Unless you're planning on doing it in a day (which isn't going to happen on your first time up) you have to haul. You can tend to force yourself through up til about v3/5. climb a bunch of multi-pitch free routes. Indoor sport - Like 12-18 routes/pitches if I'm not training endurance. east buttress of el cap). It's fuzzy, but my estimate here would be 6 total grades of margin, or a full french number grade. I've been climbing for about 8 months now, taught myself how to sport climb outdoors after about 3 months with a friend. Your first few times, you'll probably lose a lot of time on transitions, so just be prepared for it to likely take longer than you expect it to. This weekend I am climbing my first multi pitch, a route called Whymper in the Blue Mountains of Australia. Once you feel confident in trad and multi-pitch you could then take a less experienced partner out. In rock climbing, a pitch is the name used for a section of a climb. The rule of thumb for single pitch climbing is that your onsight and redpoint are typically separated by 4 grades. Time how long it takes to do the whole climb, just the pitches and then extrapolate it out to see if you can finish a 12-14 pitch climb. I did my first few multi-pitch routes on a ~10mm and it was really hard to pull the rope through the ATC in guide mode. The best advice I have for you is to boulder a ton so that you start to develop proper technique so that you don't get elvis leg (as much) while placing gear. On a good day trad climbing, usually more like 4-6 depending on the approach. Jun 27, 2016 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The term “pitch” is used to describe a route length that can be climbed and protected with an average length rope of 60-70 meters. Saxonian Sandstone shows the other extreme in bolting ethic: max 3 rings in a pitch, may it 20 or 50 m long 2 fayettevillainjd parameters* serious question: have you ever climbed a multipitch route? These questions might seem pretty important if you are an avid single pitch climber, but when actually climbing a multipitch route, all that stuff seems wholly insignificant unless it is your main style of climbing. Anyone know of any other cool multipitch sport routes on the east coast? Getting close to breaking into trad, hoping to put up a few more sport multipitch climbs before the investment though! I started by climbing up the first pitch, then continuing. Here's what you need to know to buy your first rope. Jun 20, 2025 · The differences between rock climbing ropes can quite literally mean life and death. For more common trad anchors or multi-pitch climbing, 20–25 feet of 7mm cordalette is pretty common. I'm doing research on climbing for a book. Commit to a rope management/change over system with your partner and do it the same every time. 9 sport climb. Nowadays, gym culture has taken over and some people seem to have narrowed it down to different types of gym climbing, or indoor/outdoor sport climbing and bouldering. I've done about 250 pitches this year over an A climbing rope long enough for the longest rappel; and enough draws for the longest pitch of the route; and each member of the two-person climbing party will need: Primary Climbing Area: Northeast USA, The Gunks Current Lead Range: up to 5. Knowing how to haul quickly is usually the difference between success and failure. It explains the I wouldn't have had the confidence to start multi-pitch climbing until I went with experienced climbers. The third thing is that you should jump on this opportunity. Rope length is not the only factor in determining the length of a pitch, other factors include rope drag (how much the route moves left and right) and the availability of belay stations. International Union of Alpine Clubs) was founded in August 1932 in Chamonix, France when 20 mountaineering associations met for an alpine congress. 10 on gear, which is good for Im curious what everyone’s climbing progression/timeline has been like? How quickly did you progress from V1 to V2, and then V2 to V3 etc (not limited to bouldering grades). I know this topic has often been discussed but you'd be surprised at how difficult it was to find proper arguments when googling. My usual standard rack for a single, decent length pitch I know little about includes 4-8 quickdraws in addition to maybe 4 alpine draws. Add on a potential rope drag and you'll be working harder to pull the rope through the belay than you work actually climbing the Hey climbers. I would also love to hear any stories you would like to share on your first experiences engaging in a multi-pitch climb. Start with a few pitches, then do a 5-pitch route (like anything on manure pile buttress), then a 10 pitch, then a 15 pitch (ex. I'd appreciate some of your insights. 10 (you will go faster the more free climbing you can do). Had a super fun time on this 4 pitch, 8-. I was taught to use the clove hitch (with the rope) to tie in at the anchor. Take note of options in the route description/ trip reports/observations from the approach and climb. Finding a class (or better yet an experienced friend) to teach you trad climbing and multi-pitch skills is the best way to start. - don’t bleed on the rock or gym holds 2. - trim it 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. It's a great book, entertaining, and you'll learn a lot. 8+ or 5. The home of Climbing on reddit. I’m looking to buy a climbing pack, I’m not sure if it is to much to ask, but I was looking for a pack I can use for both cragging single pitch climbs, and multi pitch days. 9 in the valley, preferably 5. At which grade did you start to plateau? When did you start seriously training? I had followed long multi pitch alpine routes that were just 5. I highly recommend picking up Chris Mcnamara's big wall book. Start below your limit on something with good belay ledges, and have fun. Pitches nowadays are anywhere from 100' to 180' and beyond. 5. Single pitch sport - Don't do sport a lot but I managed about 12 routes per day on holiday. Figure out how to climb and self rescue on a 2 pitcher and then go climb a 8+ pitch sport/mixed route. 16 votes, 48 comments. Even though most of the climbing I do is mostly crack climbing and therefore I rely heavily on cams, I still carry quickdraws. My first multi pitch was within a month of starting climbing. I really recommend you read John Long's "Anchors" book if you want to get into trad leading or multi-pitch climbing. A rope you use 2-3 times a month will last a long time unless something weird happens like a core shot or you take some really big falls. Choose easy to digest foods that require minimal prep (energy foods, fig neutons). Instead it is more specific to guiding. 7 trad. So, it sounds like you've never led a mult-pitch trad climb before, and you're doing this as a party of three, with at least one climber who is only comfortable to 5. I’ve always had dedicated PAS but am leaning toward ditching it entirely and primarily anchoring with the climbing rope (I mostly do multi-pitch trad). It's a 5 pitch… A good pin and correct placement will last a long time and if done correctly will be given the nomenclature as being, “bomber”. 11's confidently and want to branch into lower grade multipitch climbs. Simul climbing easier pitches will save a good amount of time if you're willing to take the risk. What kind of training (besides climbing) do people do to prepare? I’m a fairly decent hiker with good cardio endurance, and gym climb a couple times a week. I don't have anyone to teach me and I was hoping I could get some advice on how to learn techniques like the top down belay and setting up multipitch anchor stations, including I’m looking to do some long multipitch alpine climbs this summer. This is typically what I bring on most multi pitch climbs and how I’d rack it to maximize space for pro + draws, the extra carabiners shown (not attached) are situationally As others have said, bring a headtorch, and if it's a long day out, start early to avoid crowds, as if it's a busy route you can get stuck behind groups which drastically increases the risk of finishing up in the dark. First ever flapper, how long do I need to sit? Can I climb on this? Question Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A FeralStoat • Rules for flappers: 1. I've been climbing for a year, lifting for 2, so I was in your boat thinking id be able to directly transfer the skills from lifting over to climbing. The modern day progression for this is: learn to rock climb-> Once you comfortably climb 5. 9, and then you'll have to actually work on technique and practical strength to improve. Being a strong free climber helps to move more quickly on most walls. How much water do you drink in a long day? What about food? If you aspire to do multi-pitch climbing, you really don't want a rope that's thicker than 9. If How long did it take you long time climbers to do youre first v7? I've been climbing for around 8 months and just did my first v5, and out of curiosity I've been trying some v7s but the difference between the two difficulties staggers me so I've been wanting to know. 7 a handful of times one day of TR a 5. Is it feasible to climb a 1-mile high vertical rock face? How long would it take an average climber to do so? The second thing is granite climbing is quite a bit different from gym climbing so your gym grades don't mean shit. Single pitch trad - Sometimes about 6-12 depending on length. 6/5. When swinging leads on a multi-pitch route, the belay transitions are often the biggest time suck. (Ideally something with some support that could bê hauled) What do you mean by all rounders? It seems that the definition is changing. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. May 20, 2022 · But the thing about climbing quickly is that it’s not necessarily about the climbing —it’s more about doing everything else efficiently. Climbing with a team of three kinda sucks on a long multi pitch but you'll learn a ton and that's what matters. She had helped me discover hiking and pushed me to try the climbing gym. I have some ~10 year old bluewater ropes that I'd trust for top roping and hauling, but they mostly get used for other stuff. 1. Saving 10 minutes on each pitch over 10 pitches is almost 2 hours. 9 free climbers spend 4 days slogging on (may have bolt ladders, may have run out aid on sketchy fifi hooks) and committed alpine faces with I would like to climb a multi-pitch route and I am here asking for advice on what books to read or videos to watch. The benefits of this over a PAS would be (correct The mini haul bag style packs that are marketed for multi-pitch climbing don't carry very well but are great for climbing back-to-back hard pitches and new routes where you'll be spending a lot more time on the wall and need extra food/water/equipment. Either way, I agree. I’ve gone through dozens of shoes doing everything White Maidens is a good, mellow long one (as long as you don't get off route). In Yosemite, the Bugaboos and plenty of other places there are lots of big multipitch trad routes with long, bolted rappel lines that don't overlap with the climbing route and the rock under the rap line isn't climbable. Wake up earlier, choose long summer days, approach by headlamp, camp closer to base of route. The goal is to have your team in synch, with both climbers working together to get the leader moving. then in my experience for multipitch climbing you need another grade of margin for every crux pitch. Also, you might find this video pretty helpful. . Alpine style cylinder pack (BD speed) 30-40L if you are climbing in the backcountry. For an ice piton you would have to go back to the 40’s-50’s. 5 or so, so no way she was going to fall nor was i going to get in over my head. Thing is, it's a totally different beast than multipitch trad/sport. Hey, I was having this discussing this a climbing buddy recently who likes to tie in with 2 slings. - clip it 3. I was hoping some of you might be able to help me. As you get more into climbing you're going to learn that you need to really develop your own sense of what is and isn't safe To become proficient at climbing trad you first need to be proficient at climbing. 6 Experience: climbing for 5y, trad leading for one year ~35 pitches led total since my first lead last June. If you can consistently boulder v3/v4 outdoors you should be more than strong enough to navigate any crux climbing on 5. The right solution for you likely depends on the area you’re climbing. With that said: basic gear for multi pitch free climbing would include a helmet for each climber, rock shoes, chalk bag, a dynamic rope in the 10mm or greater range and of length in excess of 60m (more common in 70m or greater these days), possibly a second rope depending on how long the rappels will be to get off the route, climbing protection Pics from Roger's Rock, New York. But really, if you have a solid single pitch background, it's not complicated. If you are trying to move as fast as possible your partner should be ascending fixed lines on hard pitches (or every pitch) which lends itself to block leading (see below). Honestly, half dome was my first real "big wall". I’ve used many and placed many in my years of alpine climbing with a lot of explorative ascents. To sum up: Especially in Frankenjura is No Standard bolting ethic, due to very liberal guidelines in bolting. cugq utuix ilms uuynj yzrgbrk vuodg wftrk hpemhycw hrpcjkj neolwe